Hortobagy National Park is Hungary's first and largest national park, covering roughly 800 square kilometres of open steppe, shallow lakes, and fishponds in the eastern part of the country. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and remains one of Europe's top birdwatching destinations, with 342 recorded bird species.
Understanding the Landscape
The Hortobagy puszta is the largest semi-natural grassland in Europe. Stretching across the Hajdu-Bihar County, the landscape is almost entirely flat, dominated by alkaline grasslands, seasonal marshes, and a network of fishponds that were constructed in the 19th century. This combination of habitats is what drives the park's remarkable bird diversity.
The grasslands support ground-nesting species such as the Great Bustard and the Stone Curlew. The fishponds attract herons, egrets, spoonbills, and enormous numbers of migrating waders and wildfowl. Even the scattered stands of trees and hedgerows play a role, providing nest sites for Red-footed Falcons and European Rollers.
Great Bustards (Otis tarda) on open steppe. Photo: Fernando Benito Alvarez / CC BY-SA 2.5
Key Species to Look For
The park's bird list is extensive, but several species stand out as particular highlights that draw visitors from around the world.
Great Bustard
Males of this species can weigh up to 16 kilograms, making them among the heaviest flying birds on the planet. The Carpathian Basin population has stabilised at around 1,700 individuals thanks to decades of conservation work. During the breeding season from March to June, males perform a spectacular display, puffing out their feathers into a white ball visible from several kilometres away. The best areas to observe them are the open grasslands west of the main road through the park.
Saker Falcon and Eastern Imperial Eagle
Hungary's Great Plain is one of the last strongholds for both species in Europe. Saker Falcons nest on pylons and in artificial nest boxes across the steppe, while Eastern Imperial Eagles favour scattered tree lines. Both are present year-round, but spring offers the best observation opportunities as adults provision growing chicks.
European Roller
This striking turquoise bird arrives in late April and breeds in tree cavities and nest boxes across the Hortobagy. Numbers peak in June and July. They are conspicuous perch-hunters and relatively easy to photograph from a vehicle along the park's unpaved tracks.
Red-footed Falcon
Large breeding colonies occupy old rook nests in the tree lines that cross the puszta. They are most visible from May through July, when adults are busy hunting large insects over the grasslands. Hortobagy supports one of the largest Red-footed Falcon colonies in Western Eurasia.
When to Visit
Every season at Hortobagy offers something different, so the best time depends on what you most want to see.
Seasonal Highlights
- Spring (March - May): Great Bustard displays, arrival of summer migrants including Rollers, Bee-eaters, and Red-footed Falcons. Wader passage at the fishponds.
- Summer (June - August): Breeding activity at its peak. Large mixed heron colonies active. Best time for photographing Rollers and Bee-eaters.
- Autumn (September - November): Crane migration peaks in October with up to 70,000 Common Cranes staging at the fishponds. Raptor passage, including Rough-legged Hawks and White-tailed Eagles.
- Winter (December - February): Wintering raptors including Long-eared Owl roosts, Eastern Imperial Eagles, and White-tailed Eagles. Quiet but rewarding for those who tolerate the cold.
Practical Information
Getting to Hortobagy is straightforward. The park lies about two hours east of Budapest by car, or you can take a direct train to Debrecen and arrange transport from there. The village of Hortobagy itself has a visitor centre, a historic inn (the Hortobagy Csarda), and basic accommodation options.
Much of the park can be explored along unpaved roads and tracks. A car is useful for covering distance, but several well-maintained boardwalks and observation towers provide excellent views over the fishponds and marshes. Guided tours are available through the national park directorate and through several local wildlife tour operators.
Tips for Your Visit
- Bring a good scope. The flat terrain means birds are often distant, and a telescope makes a huge difference.
- Start early. Dawn and the first few hours of daylight are by far the most productive, particularly in summer.
- Respect restricted zones. Some areas are closed during breeding season. Always check at the visitor centre for current access rules.
- Carry water and sun protection. There is very little shade on the open steppe, and summer temperatures regularly exceed 35 degrees Celsius.
- For the crane spectacle, arrive at the fishponds well before sunset. The birds come in to roost as the light fades.
Conservation and Further Reading
Hortobagy's habitats face ongoing pressures from changes in water management and land use, but the national park authority works actively to maintain the mosaic of grassland and wetland that makes the area so valuable for wildlife. If you want to learn more about the park and its conservation efforts, these resources are a good starting point: