Every autumn, the skies above eastern Hungary fill with the bugling calls of Common Cranes heading south. Between late September and mid-November, the fishponds of Hortobagy National Park become a temporary home for 40,000 to 70,000 of these elegant birds, making it one of Europe's most impressive wildlife gatherings.
Why Hungary Matters for Cranes
The Common Crane (Grus grus) breeds across Scandinavia, the Baltic states, and northern Russia. As autumn arrives, these birds begin a long journey south to wintering grounds in Spain, North Africa, and the eastern Mediterranean. Hungary sits squarely on one of the main flyways, and the Hortobagy puszta, with its vast fishponds and shallow wetlands, provides the ideal staging area where cranes can rest and refuel before continuing their journey.
The importance of this stopover cannot be overstated. For many cranes, the energy reserves they build here determine whether they will survive the rest of the migration. The fishponds offer safe overnight roosting sites where birds stand in shallow water, protected from ground predators, while the surrounding agricultural fields provide spilled grain and other food sources during the day.
When to See the Cranes
Timing is everything when it comes to the crane spectacle. The first small flocks typically appear in mid to late September, but numbers build rapidly through October.
Migration Timeline
- Late September: Early arrivals, small groups of 50-200 birds begin appearing at the fishponds.
- Early to mid-October: Numbers build quickly. Daily arrivals of fresh flocks from the north. Total counts often reach 30,000-50,000.
- Late October: Peak numbers. On the best days, 60,000-70,000 cranes may be present. The evening roost flights are at their most spectacular.
- Early November: Numbers begin to decline as birds continue south. Still impressive, with 10,000-20,000 often remaining.
- Mid to late November: The last stragglers depart. A few hundred birds may linger into December if the weather stays mild.
The Evening Roost: What to Expect
The highlight for most visitors is the evening roost flight. Throughout the day, cranes feed in agricultural fields up to 20-30 kilometres from the fishponds. As the afternoon wears on, they begin moving back toward the roost sites, and the last hour before sunset is when the spectacle reaches its peak.
Wave after wave of cranes arrive from all directions, flying in loose V-formations or long, wavering lines. The sound is extraordinary, a continuous chorus of trumpeting calls that carries for kilometres across the flat steppe. As the light fades, the birds circle down onto the fishponds, their silhouettes dark against the orange and pink of the sunset.
The scale of the event is difficult to convey in words. Imagine standing at the edge of a fishpond as the sky fills with birds in every direction, their calls drowning out all other sound. It is one of those wildlife experiences that stays with you long after you return home.
Best Viewing Locations
Not all of the Hortobagy fishponds are equally good for watching cranes, and access to some areas is restricted during the migration period to avoid disturbing the birds. The national park authority typically sets up official viewing points and sometimes organises guided evening visits.
Hortobagy Fishponds (Halastavak)
The main fishpond complex south of the village of Hortobagy is the primary roost site. The park operates observation platforms at several points along the dykes between the ponds. These fill up quickly on busy weekends, so arriving early in the afternoon is advisable.
Nagyivan Fishponds
Less visited than the main Hortobagy complex, the fishponds near Nagyivan can be excellent on the right day. Smaller crowds mean a more intimate experience, though crane numbers here are generally lower.
Fields Along Route 33
During the day, large flocks of feeding cranes can often be found in stubble fields and pastures along the main road through the park. Watching from a parked car works well, as the birds tolerate vehicles much more readily than people on foot.
Practical Tips for Crane Watching
- A telescope is essential for close views. Even with 70,000 cranes, the fishponds are large and the birds may be several hundred metres away.
- Dress warmly. October evenings on the puszta can be cold and windy, and you will be standing still for extended periods.
- Bring a headlamp for the walk back to your car after dark. There is no lighting on the fishpond dykes.
- Photography is challenging in the low light. A fast lens and high ISO capability help, but managing expectations is wise. The experience is more about being there than getting the perfect shot.
- Check with the Hortobagy National Park visitor centre for current viewing point access and any guided tours that may be running.
Other Birds During Migration
While the cranes are the headline act, the autumn migration period brings plenty of other interesting birds to Hortobagy. White-tailed Eagles gather at the fishponds to hunt weakened waterfowl. Rough-legged Hawks arrive from the north to spend the winter on the steppe. Large flocks of geese, including Greater White-fronted and Bean Geese, share the fishponds with the cranes. And Long-eared Owls begin forming their communal winter roosts in the small tree plantations scattered across the plain.